July 15, 2014
If you want to start at the beginning, please read the previous post for an intro to this three-part list . . .
Day 16– Burgos – (I was not feeling well in Montes de Oca so I took a bus to Burgos, thus missing a day of walking.) Hotel Norte y Londres – €55. A lovely little hotel, and the desk attendant, Teresa Alonso, was delightful. We talked for quite awhile. I would have stayed two nights, but I had already booked the second night at a bit less expensive place.
Day 17 – Burgos – Hotel Entreacos – €49.50, I think. Another nice little hotel, and the last relief from bunk beds for awhile.
Day 18 – Rabe de las Calzados – Albergue Liberanos Domine – €8. Another delicious dinner for €8. Saffron soup, a beautiful “tortilla” without potatoes(!), and a green salad.
Bar down the street for pre-dinner cheese and crackers, and a drink.
**Day 19 – Hontanas – Albergue Santa Brigida – €6. Looked brand new, with spacious rooms, a plug and a reading light at each bunk level. Down comforters on each bed. Lovely courtyard in back. Offered dinner for another €8-10 (?). Delicious salad, paella and homemade vanilla pudding. A darling Cuban couple manages the place. VERY friendly.
Day 20 – Itero de la Vega – Albergue Puenta Fitero – €8 or so. Can’t find it. Two old Spanish men (brothers?) own this place. Restaurant on the grounds.
Day 21 – Fromista – Albergue Estrella del Camino – €7. Nice place, though the owners weren’t very friendly. Several restaurants around the town square. A nice village in which to spend an evening.
Day 22 – Carrion de los Condos – Albergue Espiritu Sancto, run by nuns. €5. Delightful place. Large room with 13 single beds for women, and a big bathroom across the hall.
Day 23 – Caldadilla de la Cueza – Albergue Camino Real – €7. A new swimming pool was the high point of this place, since we had just walked 18 km without a town, water fountain, or decent place to sit. Hot, no wind, no trees, etc. Everyone was ready for this place with its crowded bunk rooms and the pool. Family owned Hostal down the road was the only place to eat, with a Pilgrim’s menu at €10.
Day 24 – Sahagun – Hostal Don Pacho – €15 for a private room. The Muni Albergue is in the center but I had just taken the only fall on my Camino, and appreciated a room of my own.
Day 25 – Hermanillos de la Caldaza (or Calzadilla de los Hermanillos) – Muni Albergue with kitchen – Donativo (I paid €5). Small albergue with good bed set-up. Wonderful little Tienda (a food shop) a few blocks off the main path (follow the blue or white arrows and the “Tienda” sign).
Day 26 – Mansilla – Muni Albergue – €5. Full kitchen, very large courtyard with tables for eating, and clothing racks for drying laundry. The manager there is “Nurse Blister”, and loves helping those with sores on their feet. Fortunately, I didn’t need her sevices.
Several little grocery stores between the entrance to Mansilla and the Muni Alb., where you can pick up food for your dinner. Also several restaurants in the area.
**Day 27/28 – Leon – Hotel Albany (Thank you, Rick Steves) – €40. Perfect location, just off the main Cathedral plaza. Has coffee shop, very nice restaurant, or will give you plate and silverware to eat in your room if you have your own food. Two rest days in Leon.
**Day 29 – Hospital de Orbigo – Albergue San Miguel – €7. Alberto is our host, Begoña his younger assistant – two of the kindest people I met on the Camino. Kitchen and eating room.
*Day 30 – Murias – Albergue Las Agnedas – €9. Washer AND dryer. Very nice dinner cooked by the lovely couple who manage or own the place. Relaxing, large courtyard. A good stop.
To be continued . . . Part 3 – Day 31-49