July 19, 2014
If you want to start at the beginning, please read the previous posts for an intro to this three-part list . . .
Day 31 – Foncebadon – Monte Irago – €5 (if you are over 65). REALLY funky town. Excellent dinner at this place, but when I was there, the owner was quite crabby. Nice wife and kids, good chef, and I saw lots of peregrinos I knew, met a few great new friends, etc. If you stay in Foncebadon for the night, you will get to Cruz de Ferro in the morning, a lovely time to throw your stone, but you will not be alone at the Cruz.
Day 32 – Molinaseca – Albergue Santa Marina – €7. You will think you’ve gone too far, but this yellow house is WAY outside of the main part of town, on your right. They offer dinner, but I went into town to a little grocery store and purchased some of my favorite things to take back with me to the peaceful porch at the albergue.
Day 33 – Cacabelos – Muni Albergue – €5. Very unique arrangement inside the stone walls around this stone church courtyard. 70 “rooms” in 35 windowless pods. An adventure. No meals available.
Day 34 – Vega de Valcarce – Albergue El Roble – €5. New young owners Matthew and Livia. Delicious dinner. Good place to stop before O’Cebreiro. Unfortunately, my understanding is that the Albergue is closed until sometime in 2015 for extensive renovation/repairs. Too bad. I very much liked this couple and I’ve read on the Albergue’s Facebook page that they will be managing Albergue La Magdalena in Vega de Valcarce until the El Roble is up and running again next year. If I were going now, I’d check out the couple and their management, rather than the actual place they had just purchased while I was there last year.
Day 35 – O’Cebreiro – Muni Albergue – €5. Very few places to stay here, but the muni has about 100+ beds in three rooms. Tight quarters, but who cares at this point?
Day 36 – Triacastela – Complexo Xoajacobeo – €9. Large complex with private and bunk rooms. Kitchen, laundry facilities, a community room with TV and computer. Complex-owned restaurant just down the street with good dinners, eggs for breakfast (!), etc. Two little grocery stores in town, an ATM, and nothing much else.
Day 37 – Triacastela – Complexo Xoajacobeo – €35 for private room. Needed to heal my shin splints just a bit, and though my journal says a private room was this expensive, I didn’t think that was right. If you want a private room there, you’ll learn the price for yourself. Nice place, though.
***Day 38 – Barbadelo – Albergue Casa Barbadelo – €9. Perhaps my favorite place all ‘round. Technically between Ponte Áspera and Barbadelo itself, welcoming entry, full dining room, relaxing patio with soft lighting up the pathway. I stayed in a bunk room with very few people, but they also have private rooms. Highly recommended. Just the next stop after Sarria – about 2.5 more km. NOTE: Watch the scallop shell signs carefully in downtown Sarria. They are on the sidewalk sometimes, and then they seem to disappear, though I might have just missed one or two,. Can be very confusing and I wasted about 30 minutes getting lost in there.
Day 39 – Portomarin – Albergue Porto Santiago – €10. Kitchen, laundry, such a sweet manager.
Day 40 – Palas de Rei – Albergue San Marcos – €10. Brand new, just at the early edge of town on the right across from the church. Great croissants for breakfast.
*Day 41 – Castañeda – Albergue Castañeda – €10. A little place. Husband and wife made dinner and breakfast for us. Like staying with family. A star for kindness and atmosphere, as well as the dinner and the omelet for breakfast!
**Day 42 – Santa Irene – Albergue Santa Irene – €13 for a single bed in an alcove. Stars for the homey living room with a fire in the wood stove and classical music playing. An excellent dinner cooked by the young woman who greeted me.
Day 43/44 – Santiago de Compostela – Hostal Santa Cruz – €20. Well located, though quite funky. Right across the street from a nice restaurant with very dysfunctional service. See Days 46-49 for an excellent recommendation.
Day 45 – Finisterre – Albergue do Sol y Luz – €24 for a private twin-bedded room to share with Ria. Homemade and delicious meal (donative), and a very communal feeling.
***Day 46/47/48/49 – Seminario Maior – St. Martin Pinario – private room with bath and breakfast included – €23. If you’d rather pay less and sleep in a bunk room, you can still stay here. The environment was just what I needed post-Camino. Dining room for lunch and/or dinner (extra charge but very affordable). Large community room with fireplace and a little bar for tea, coffee and the delicious Tarta de Santiago. Peaceful, wonderful, just across the Plaça from the Cathedral. Highly recommended. They will hold your luggage while you go to Finisterre and Muxia, are very cooperative and accommodating.
These are but a very few of the possibilities for shelter in the night on the Camino de Santiago. I thank everyone who participated in my safe journey and who provided comfort each evening after a long, often arduous walk.
For those who are planning your trip now, Buen Camino!